SHF contributor, Zara Okpara meets exclusively with Vogue Italia Editor in Chief and recently appointed Goodwill Ambassador of Fashion for Development, Franca Sozzani on her recent trip to Nigeria facilitated by Shoreline Group’s Kola Karim and Rachael Taiwo Akingbade .
I sat with her at the Sofitel Moorhouse for an exclusive interview for SHF. I only had to ask one question and it blossomed into a passionate discussion about fashion, Africa, and development. For SHF as well as myself, it’s always been about development – whether it’s the growth of a brand or a publication or the industry as a whole; the pertinent question has always been about how to take that and watch it transform not only the industry but also develop the local society we live in – this is where I am most passionate.
It was great listening to her speak because Franca had so much to say, she has so much passion for fashion and development in Africa. We’ve seen her hand in the launch and growth of Vogue Black as well as the first Vogue Italia black issue. She said to me, “ I told them (UN) I want to work”. She had done her research and pretty much schooled me on a few topics!
The interview was quite long so here is a mini clip and summarized version of her answers!
SHF: You’ve just recently been appointed the UN Goodwill Ambassador for Fashion. Can you please tell us a little bit about that? What would you like to do in Africa? What would you like to see in the African designers?
F. S.: What I would like to see is not up to me because I am not here to judge, I would just like to see what they do…I think it’s very important that they have a concept, a style, and that we can find a way to distribute (that’s very important). I’ve seen in Ghana and here (Nigeria) as well really beautiful clothes and what they need to have is an organization and start thinking of ways to expand because what’s the point of fashion for development? It is to try and develop bigger projects so that more women could be hired along with workers … to give them a future basically.
SHF: How do you think the industry can grow? What do you think is needed for the Nigerian fashion industry to become like the other international industries in New York, Paris, Milan, etc…
F. S.: By producing. You are very good in producing. Perhaps not in leather but in the fabrics…the people just need to be trained because none of us were born with knowing…they need to be trained. Textile is very important in a country. In Italy, fashion is the 2nd most important in the economy…here of course you have oil so maybe you don’t consider fashion but it’s a pity because the textiles are very important… there is potential for growth. It’s about growing the industry as a whole, not just about producing collections season after season but also producing fabrics, leather, shoes, etc
SHF: I think what’s important for us to know, because we are very much from a development stand point as well and want to see the industry grow. The government isn’t interested in the industry per se and we don’t have banks that are willing to fund or the CFDA in America or the LVMH group or those type of organizations … so if possible, how can your position in the UN help? What kind of help can you bring? Are you more interested in just observing for now and seeing how things are here and go back to Italy and come up with a plan or what kind of physical help can you/they bring to help transform the industry?
F.S.: More or less, I have an idea of what we can do here but its not easy. You know what, because you can have a brilliant idea, you can have all these people that can help – I was just talking with Roberto Cavalli, he said I can make a sketch of three dresses, have them produced here and have them put on the internet and sold…with a name like his, it would be attractive. People will buy it, especially if you use African fabrics. It can be easy so its not that we have a lack of ideas; the problem is that we are not supported by the government and we need this support.
(Z.O. Government support would include infrastructure and funding)
Franca and I went on to discuss the importance of going back to the days when Nigeria and Ghana used to produce textiles in great numbers. Using Ghana as an example, she said they used to employ about 25 – 30,000 Ghanaians in textile mills but over time this industry had become smaller, now employing about 3,000 people (mostly foreigners) in about 4 major manufacturers. Not to mention the infiltration of the Chinese made textiles, which are copied in Ghana and produced in China and sold again in Ghana. Apparently the Ghanaian government has now put a strong ban of Chinese made fabrics. Our textiles are a huge part of our identity and we need to preserve them, keep them “ours” as much as possible. Franca spoke on the idea that individuality is key…and she finds that individuality in our textiles and local prints and beading techniques and embroidery. (There is so much local talent that needs to be discovered and harnessed). For Franca, local brands could have more impact globally by using local fabrics and translating them to modern wear. She felt that prints were key, but for global impact, they had to be used in small portions in modern cuts and designs. At the interview I wore blue jeans, a white silk shirt and Jewel by Lisa print sandals, and she loved this – she said it was a perfect example of the type of style that would translate globally. “Modern African” is term we are interested in, not “Ethnic” or “Tribal”.
Watch the video for snippets from the interview! I love what she says about Fashion potentially being a huge part of Nigeria’s economy. Its something I’ve been thinking about for years and a few of us “fashion folk” have just recently started discussing this… We’re thinking about two things Infrastructure & Production! There’s so much going on in our nation right now, but we have Hope!
