From its maiden edition in February 2009 with fashion heavyweights Naomi Campbell, Liya Kebede and Alek Wek, the question that has been on everybody’s lips about Arise magazine was, “Will it survive?” And you couldn’t blame them for their initial misgivings and pessimism. A magazine aiming to represent the African continent as a whole and for a change – in a positive light, focusing on high fashion, music, culture and polity without compromising on standards and quality…is no mean feat! But ten editions stronger, the question has changed to anticipated, “What next?…We can’t wait!” SHF catches up with London based stylist, journalist and editor of Arise magazine, Helen Jennings on what it’s like being in her shoes, her views on African fashion, the future of Arise and her favourite Nigerian outfit.
Arise magazine – the journey so far. Can you please share with us your goals, accomplishments and challenges?
ARISE is the first international glossy to shine a light on all the good things happening on the continent and in the diaspora. We cover African fashion, music, culture, society, business and politics from a global perspective. Our first issue was given away at Thisday’s Africa Rising concert at London’s Royal Albert Hall in October 2008. It was well received and we launched on newsstands in February 2009.
Since then there has been so many highlights – our interview with Grace Jones, who graced the catwalk at the debut ARISE show at NYFW, our cover shoot with Alicia Keys (ARISE was sponsor of her Keep A Child Alive Black Ball in 2009) and our epic World Cup gatefold fashion shoot with six models including Oluchi and Alek Wek to name just three.
The main challenge at first was that people didn’t know where to place the magazine because it’s such a unique proposition but each issue speaks for itself and we’re now sold in four continents and on shelves next to mainstream magazines such as Vogue and Vanity Fair.
Please tell us what you did before you became the editor of Arise magazine.
I studied English at King’s College London and did a post grad in journalism. My first job was at The Big Issue, after which I worked as a journalist and stylist for a number of titles – Trace and The Fader in the USA, i-D, The Face, BBC and Time Out in England, Oyster and Russh in Australia etc – and then I moved onto editing.
Does your background as a fashion stylist and journalist make you a better editor?
Yes. Having done the hands on jobs means I can now be confident about editing other people’s work and gives me a firm grasp on what makes a good story.
Arise Issue 9
Do you think you are at a disadvantage not being Black African as the editor of a magazine that primary focuses on the continent as a whole? Does it make your job easier or more difficult or does it make no difference?
It’s been really nice that wherever I’ve been in Africa representing the magazine, I’ve been warmly welcomed. No one has disrespected me for not being a black African. There have been a few negative blog entries about me, especially after the media furor surrounding Essence employing a white fashion editor, but this attitude is blinkered and reactionary. Skills, knowledge, attitude and experience are what count, not race. And as an ‘outsider’ I can be completely impartial in my editorial approach, bolstered of course by my diverse editorial team and pool of contributors across the continent.
More to the point though, unlike titles such as Essence, Ebony, Pride, True Love and African Woman, ARISE is not trying to be specifically a black title or talk to just one audience or gender. We’re a global title meant for anyone who is engaged with Africa’s ascension. The world is shrinking so why create a magazine about Africa just for Africans by Africans?
Please describe a typical day in the life of Helen Jennings.
We’re a small team at ARISE so I get stuck in on every level. I might style a shoot one day, interview someone the next, or be in the office signing off pages, editing copy or in meetings with advertisers. It’s busy but never boring.
What has been the general response Arise magazine has received from 1st publication till date?
We’ve had an overwhelmingly positive response so far. The magazine has hit on a need for an up market, intelligent magazine about Africa that doesn’t condescend its readers, compromise on quality or exclude anyone from picking it up. We receive messages from readers all the time saying how happy they are that there’s finally a magazine that speaks to them. The industry response has been great too. PRs and publicists are happy to have their talent appear in ARISE because of the reputation we’ve built.
Do you have a favourite cover or story?
Arise Issue 6
Our issue six fashion cover with Sessilee Lopez is my favourite. She looks fierce! In terms of editorial exclusives, our interview with Morgan Tsvangirai in issue 10 was landmark.
Arise magazine is top on our list of magazines that have made a difference in the African fashion industry with the Fashion Week platforms. What should we expect next?
The ARISE African Fashion Week Collective shows at New York Fashion Week and our sponsorship of Africa Fashion Week in Johannesburg last year are all part of the magazine’s mission to put African fashion on the same pedestal as the international collections. We are planning our largest fashion event so far for next year but my lips are sealed.
Who is your favourite Nigerian fashion designer and why?
I can’t possibly choose one. I love Jewel By Lisa’s use of embellishments, Maki Oh’s cerebral approach to design and Tiffany Amber’s glamorous silhouettes. I could go on…
What is your favourite traditional piece of Nigerian clothing?
The gele – it makes the wearer look so elegant, well presented and grand. I don’t think I could pull one off myself though!
What is your interpretation of The Tribal Trend or Lack of it for SS 2011?
Fashion is about the next new trend. Tribal was big for both spring/summer 2009 and spring/summer 2010 so it’s little wonder it’s around less next season. Having said that, there are still elements of it at Missoni, McQueen, Gucci, Etro and Armani.
Arise Issue 10
Is there a future for ankara globally? What effect will that have on the Nigerian Fashion Industry?
Ankara is a quality fabric that can be used in so many different ways. Prints are constantly evolving so can keep up with the moment and the more it’s used by Nigerian designers to create contemporary styles, the wider its appeal will reach. Nigerian fashion goes beyond ankara though and to compete globally, designers have to experiment with a broad range of luxury fabrics.
What should we expect from Arise magazine in the future?
Our next issue is our best yet and in 2011 we’re upping our pagination and distribution and broadening our digital platforms. I feel that we’re doing something meaningful with ARISE that goes beyond having a pretty magazine to put on your coffee table. So as Africa realises its potential, so will ARISE.
Do you have tips for up and coming fashion stylists and journalists?
Persevere! It’s tough at the beginning but show initiative and enthusiasm. Don’t rely on nepotism to get where you want to be – get there by talent and then when you do get to the top, remember what it was like at the bottom.
SHF credits the portrait to Elina Simonen.
