I wasn’t hugely impressed with NYFW this season. New York is and has always been my favourite to watch. And everytime I watch, I’m looking for something that will excite me! NY is filled with new, emerging talent and I have always found exciting the few that explore new ways to view fashion – like Proenza Schoeler, Alexander Wang, and Prabal Gurung. But I couldn’t find that inspiration, or excitement in any of these – or for the most part, all of fashion week generally. A few however, tickled my fashion bone.
Vera Wang
I’ve been a fan of Vera Wang since I can remember. I mean, who isn’t? I was in love with her last fall collection, and this time even more amazed by this one. Because she’s done it again – there’s something about that contrast, that magic that occurs when you pair fluids with a tough exterior. I love fashion when it experiments into the uncommon – but in a relatable way, in an everyday way, (sorry Lady Gaga and Nicki Minaj). One of my favourite pieces was the shorts. Those type of shorts have never really appealed to me…but it’s the pop of color, the sheer tops, the layering, the shearlings coats that all come together to make it fashion forward and cool again. These shorts find their way through out the collection as some form of underlay. Quite special also were the “over lay” peplums we might call them? that found themselves over and beneath the shorts, sheer maxis, and impeccably tailored suit trousers. The loops, seam pockets, and zipper bring to mind what looks like the top half of trousers. And this, J’aime. This is how you experiment with an unconventional idea and turn around and make it desirable. The rest of the collection was complete with sheer maxis or some form of sheerness (this, I find Vera does well) and protective overcoats whether sleeveless or fur-happy.
All in all the collection hit high notes for me – in the layering, the use of color in the right places, the re-invention of old pieces, and the elements that represent innovation and originality.
Rodarte
I am one of those that has always appreciated Rodarte, not loved, but appreciated. They are dreamers with inspirations, every collection tells a story and this story is literally seen in the execution of the garments. And the execution is quite splendid, we can’t front. Best to describe it as Art (with its obvious hand craftsmanship). My issue though with Rodarte is that is never seemed to have that ready to wear appeal. It was art and costume for a special occasion, nice to be looked at and admired – but that’s where I left it. It didn’t leave me longing to own any of the pieces. I’m all about the Special & Cool – in everyday wear aesthetic – that’s my MO. However! Rodarte did me good this season. I don’t think I have been this pleased with a designers collection in a while. And not because the pieces were that special or super extraordinary, maybe it was just for the fact that it was unique and different and unexpected? And that it was coming from Rodarte. With this collection they were able to marry art, vision, precision, story telling, and commerciality. Those coats! I am not a fan of Winter, and living in the tropics is where I call home, but now a Winter holiday can’t come sooner. I loved the modern double breasted feel to them. This was also adopted in a number of pieces and in my fave, a gorgeous jumper dress. I can’t ignore the strapless dresses made pretty with the detachable collars, the maxi ruffled dresses in printed silk, and the leather armour dresses (that’s what I’m calling them!) My best Rodarte collection to date!
Marchesa
There’s just one word to describe Marchesa this season: BREATHTAKING. It was a 32 piece collection, so I must have gasped 32 times! Each piece was laced with detail, precision, craft, and perfection. What more can I say? The collection speaks for itself. Marchesa is typically known for its red carpet appeal and (most of the time) those lucky enough to wear it are never ridiculed on E!’s Fashion Police. Coming down the runway, they oozed luxury and opulence.
The classic dresses are as expected standardly beautiful for red carpet glamor, but I loved how this magnificence was transferred to the shorter, playful, angelic pieces (literally, the white feathers looked like they might just have fallen of an Angel’s wings). Those were my favourites (and the lame rose gold dress – GENIOUS that they paired it with some gold shoe booties, and the opening piece – the brocade like coat with the delicate tulle peeking out), along with the rest of the shoes, which are absolutely to LIVE for.
Next prayer point! Marchesa Wedding dress!
Victoria Beckham
It really amazes me how Victoria Beckham has gone from celebrity designer to credible fashion force to be reckoned with in the space of a few years. I sit and I think, how did she do? What’s her magic? One thing that I’ve come to understand from merely just observing her collections is that from day one Victoria Beckham defined a silhouette, developed an aesthetic and said something that might have gone like this, “this is my story and I’m sticking to it”. I remember watching TV one day, and some celebrity came on to a talk show. She walked out wearing a ¾ length black dress, fitted, nipped in at every corner, with a high neck and as she walked out, I said to myself, I wonder if that’s a Victoria Beckham dress. The minute she turned around and I saw the long industrial zip at the back, my guess was almost 90% confirmed until the celebrity confirmed that indeed it was a VB dress. That! for me -was incredible. That one could determine the designer of a simple fitted black shift by merely just looking at it. That’s the sign of a designer on a straight and narrow path to long term success. So for Fall 2012, as usual the female figure is praised, fitting snuggly in that now well known VB aesthetic. I also like the play on sporty-feminine – the block colored dresses in jersey that held the polo neck collars. Very cute also, were the shorter, pleated dresses in black that came towards the end. At the show, twitter was going cray with talk of the new VB Harper bag, named after her baby Harper. I am not a huge fan of the VB bags, but I appreciate them because I appreciate luxury – not to mention they played a solid role on the runway, complementing each look to the Femme-Max.
Let’s just say, in a way, VB has become the master of her own craft.
SHF Credits Style.Com
